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On return from these places your friends could tell where you’ve been by the small regional amulet you might be wearing, or the newly displayed exotic art work, or the kind of spaced out vibe you projected, as you recovered from jet lag and culture shock. Your friends could tell that you must have really been OUT THERE !
At this time, Jeffrey’s Bay in South Africa was the best wave I had ever seen. We dawn patrolled every day for a week of great, perfect surf. In the early morning dozens of workers with their kids would all be walking on the highway going to school and work. The kids would jump out onto the road and would start dancing as we approached. In Apartheid era South Africa, we were the only group of whites who responded to them with hooting and waving as we passed on to the nearby parking lot at Jeffrey’s Bay. The wave there was incredible.
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