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We were pulled by the weather and the tides. Our world was one that most didn’t understand. We had names for beach areas and surf spots that were not on any maps. It’s like we had a secret language. Some in the media called it The Secret Thrill.
My 70’s photo work kind of documents or addresses the freedom that all young people yearned for. It was a window into a formerly hidden world that is now fully media tainted. A surfer today is like an American icon such as a cowboy or mountain climber, replete with an underlying 7 billion dollar a year surfing industry.
We grew up with the yoke of 1950’s morays. Our parents we’re kind of the Frank Sinatra vibe, martinis, cigarettes and strict. In this bubble world you were meant to follow in your Dad’s footsteps, get a job, join the tennis club, buy a house and be happily stressed out for the rest of your life.
Surfing and the hippie influence of the time, allowed us to see throughout all of that and call BS on it all. We took a right turn and went our way. We did become successful in all areas of life, but we came at it in a different way. We had our secret, the freedom of the ocean world, but still focused on getting ahead and could survive the curve balls of life.
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