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Our surfing world in the 1970’s was pretty much a selfish one of catching the next great wave during the next great swell. We didn’t care too much about anything else. Self centered, yes, stressed out, no. Social issues were raging in the 70’s. We were hammered by our left leaning college professors at the time, about all of the social issues and we were aware of the Vietnam war, Nixon, Kissinger etc.
We didn’t go with the flow of society. We came from a whole different outlook that was based on nature, the weather, chasing and riding the wave. We were hassled by the police at the beach because we looked like hippies with our long hair, psychedelia etc. But we weren’t hippies. We were influenced a lot by that world, the variety of religions to look at, the aspect that we were all one, our fragile mother earth, smoking weed, LSD, health foods and all of the rest that went with it. But, we were not politicized. We quit high school organized sports and just surfed. We were like hippie, athlete, outdoors men.
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